Wow. There were really so many amazing shows, it was so hard to narrow them down. A few collections stayed in my mind weeks after they showed. They had something special that I noticed larger, more established brands lacked. See if you can find a trend.
Sometimes shows can feel jolting when they explore their theme; going from a casual day look to a full-on ballgown. Monse’s transitions were seamless, and I loved how the sequins creeped up the ‘officewear’ until they overtook it. The show then turned into a pajama-party-on-a-boat. It was fun, it made sense, and it went full circle. I dream about the white uniform shirt-dress dripping with orange sequins .
This collection was unlike anything I’ve seen at Altuzarra. Usually their aesthetic is very different, but I PRAY that they’ll stick with this one because LOVE LOVE LOVE. The small printed/appliqued fruits adorning everything, the thick belts, the thin flouncy dresses, the more-is-more but also just-went-clubbing styling-it could’ve been so wrong, but ended up so right. I’m glad Altuzarra took a risk and allowed whimsy to shine through, but let it be more complicated than simply adding on ruffles. There are pieces here that would shock me if they didn’t end up in an editorial or on the red carpet (I’m talking about that baby blue gown covered in lemons.)
Imagine your dream vacation outfit. Was it a wide brim straw hat, oversized white button down, flats, your bathing suit, and not much else? Same. Jacquemus took that basic equation and turned it on its head. The hat is big and squarely on top of your head, or completely pushed back. The white button down has puffy sleeves, looks sort-of victorian, and may or may not be topped by a sweater and a tutu. Jacquemus’ avant-garde is actually kinda wearable, and actually kinda looks super cool. But more than that, he doesn’t let wearability get in the way of his vision. In this day and age, that’s a feat in itself.
4. Isa Arfen
I didn’t know about Isa Arfen until recently, but the feel of her latest collection drew me in. There’s an earthiness, and a lazy yet intellectual slouch. What I just wrote barely makes sense (and I was the one to come up with it!) but I’m coming up short trying to describe the Isa Arfen vibe. Your fun vegan art teacher, maybe? Whoever she is, I want to be best friends with her. We could get vegan chocolate mousse and talk about Frida Kahlo. And we would be wearing the latest Isa Arfen head-to-toe.
5. Rosie Assoulin
I feel like Rosie Assoulin just loves making clothes. No, really loves it. Her collections are always so much fun in every aspect; the space, the styling, the accessories. But the focus is always on the clothes. And this season the clothes felt like a love letter to summer. Rosie took the begrudging main-stays of summer: rainbow table umbrellas, polos, Hawaiian print, khakis, and made them not only bearable, but covetable. How she does it? No idea.
What were your favorites? Do you agree with mine? Tell me in the comments!